Day 9 Wilpena back to Hawker

Another great day dawned and today we move from Wilpena Pound back into Hawker. It is only a short trip (about 50 kms) so there is no rush. We wandered up to the resort for breakfast we as had decided to treat ourselves this morning. Jillaroo breakfast all round (eggs bacon, toast, hash browns and coffee) all very civilised and pleasant to start the day with. Then back to camp to pack and move on to Hawker. We have become quite proficient at packing and setting up and so it was no time at all before we were ready to leave. Which brings me to an interesting point (maybe a concern) as over the last few days we have observed many of our fellow vanners or RVer’s trying to manoeuvre their rigs and to be frank it seems to me many of them should not be let loose with a tonka toy let alone 30ft (4 tonne) of car and caravan. In some cases they are down right dangerous and the team work which is required is sadly lacking – its bloody amazing they can arrive at their appointed destination set up and go about their merry way with out killing each other or some other poor soul who just happens to be near. It has, however, provided us with some amusement.

Sturt Dessert Pea
The trip from Wilpena to Hawker was not that pleasant as the wind had picked up and was gusting up to 50kph but we made it. Reverse in the team sprang into action and not long after we are sitting down to lunch and a relax. The wind stayed around most of the day and was a northerly so the temperature went up and topped at 31.9 so we had a warmish day. We had a trip out to Blinman early in the week chasing Sturt Dessert Pea with no luck. As we pulled into the caravan park here in all its splendour were multitudes of them. We also located them in tubs in the main street of Hawker.
More wild flowers
Old log dray
We had a wander into Hawker before lunch as we had discovered that every Saturday a vendor brings fresh fruit and veg into town and that was to good an offer to overlook. To be honest there wasn’t much left and anything that was left was disappearing fast. It seems this is a very popular attraction on a Saturday but we did manage half a watermelon, mandarins and a few other vegies so it was not all a loss.

The town itself has some wonderful old buildings and nick knacks which we will be investigating over the next few days.

Have you been remembering to look for Dougal?

Day 8 Last day at Wilpena Pound

You know there are some things that are just bloody annoying like having to get up at stupid o’clock during the night to go to the dunny. It must be an age thing because everyone our age seems to have the problem but it doesn’t matter how you change your habits the bladder clock will go off anytime between 1am and 4am – every night. I don’t mind a romantic walk in the moonlight but under no circumstance could the nightly dunny walk be considered that. Anyway today was another beaut day and the expected top was about 28deg so we figured the best time for our planned activity today was morning. The 4 intrepid travellers headed of for Arkaroo Rock which is about 25kms south of Wilpena. Pete and Robyn have gone in a different direction guess we will find out where on their return.

The walk from the car park is about 2 hrs return and takes you out to an indigenous cave painting area. I have said on numerous occasions how this place amazes me and it continues to do so. The landscape seemed to change regularly, with an abundance of wildflowers. I must say the usual abundance of fauna was not there to day. We managed to se a few bearded dragons sunning themselves but none of the other usual animals we are used to. The path was rocky and relatively steep in places but wasn’t to difficult. The path raises 100 mtrs at its highest point from the car park. We found the cave and sat for a while quietly soaking in the area. I mean no disrespect but the cave drawings are lost on me, maybe because I don’t understand what they represent especially to their creators. It would have been good if there had been like a story board to explain what we were looking at.  After a while we set off on our return journey, which was much the same as the out bound one. Di and Sharon have just gone crazy on the wild flowers and they seem to be enjoying finding the next colourful flora to photograph and discuss.

This afternoon the girls are doing a bit of scrapbooking while Gaz and I go out to the Solar/Diesel hybrid electricity site for a look. There is a short walk into the area from which you view the facility. There are 76 solar panels which provide electricity to Wilpena resort. These are supplemented by diesel generators. The set up produces enough electricity to power about 30 normal houses and has reduced the environmental impact significantly.

I enjoyed our walk today and thought of young Max he would love the lizards, emus etc.  Not sure whether or not Miss Darcy would be quite so happy.

Well Shaz and I completed a small task with our scrapbooking and by then the boys were back.  So I decided afternoon tea was in order.  Pete & Rob also returned so we made the trek to the café , which was quite enjoyable watching the parrots and having our Lattes.  Gee it is a hard life.  Sandy I am sure you would love it up here the flowers are really lovely. 

Day 7 Lazy Daze

Old Homestead

Well this morning another beaut day and the boys headed off to Hawker to have the tyre repaired.  So Shaz and I decided to visit the old Wilpena Station.  It was a 2.3km walk to the Station which we managed quite well.  When we arrived the map was wrong yet again surprise, surprise!  We spent about an hour or so meandering through the paddock looking at the old blacksmiths home & workshop, cemetery, stables, general store etc.  We make it to the homestead only to find we are unable to wander through as they use it for ‘administration’.  However we decided to visit the loos before heading back and on the inside of the toilet door there is a placard with different spiders you might find!! We were almost back to the pound when we were picked up by a couple of strange looking blokes in a blue commodore so we reckon we would have walked about 5 ks today not too bad an effort. 

This afternoon has been very relaxing took a stroll down to the information centre/shop and treated ourselves to coffee and cake. 

As today is Thursday I am missing my Ruby fix but Trace has been good to me and sent me a photo.

Gaz and I had a trip to Hawker as Di has mentioned it turns out the tyre was stuffed – still had the rock in it so we had to buy a new one. I must say I was reasonable surprised I reckon the tyre would be more expensive than at home but this turned out not to be the case. Only other incident for the day was we snapped a wheel stud putting the tyre on – shouldn’t be a big problem got 5 more but will get it fixed back in Hawker next week.

Day 6 Blinman and Brachina Gorge

Today was leisurely with no urgency to do much. We decided that we would pack a lunch and head (with Gaz and Shaz) out to Blinman and then work our way back via the dirt tourist road – if we could decipher the maps! The previous evening Sharon had given herself a headache trying to work out the route. It seems up this way that no two maps are the same and even when they are, there wrong. Any way we set off, picnic in hand, to Blinman. There were a number of photo opportunities on the way, including Stoke’s lookout.
Stoke’s lookout

Great wall of China

We negotiated the short, but rough, road up to the lookout and were not disappointed by the panoramic views of the surrounding hinterland and ranges. The lookout also incorporates a diorama of the Flinders and surrounding ranges. From here we had a short drive to the Great Wall of China and again we are amazed at the variety and intrigue this land scape has to offer. The rock formation, for all intensive purposes, mimic’s the Great wall (not that I have seen it). I should also mention that along the way we have stopped and looked at, photographed and marvelled at a huge range of wild flowers. We actually had a mission today and that was to try to locate a Sturt Desert Pea. We arrived at Blinman in time for coffee and whilst there is not a lot  there it is still a interesting place. With mostly old buildings and a mine tour, art gallery, historic cemetery and coffee.

Duly refreshed we head back towards Wilpena to find the Geological Trail to take us out to Brachina Gorge then south to Bunyeroo Gorge. The road is about 40kms all up of dirt and brings you back onto the bitumen about 10kms north of Wilpena.
Old House Blinman

Entrance to Brachina Gorge

The gorges were not what I expected in that we actually drove through them along the creek bed. We had lunch at a spot about half way through the Brachina gorge then head off to Bunyeroo. We were continually amazed at the changes in vegetation and land as we drove along today and it seemed at every turn we were presented a different aspect. I guess that’s the attraction here. The rock formations and rugged landscapes change constantly.  We got to do a bit of off road driving although the road wasn’t all that bad. Only negative for the day was a puncture early on heading for Brachina Gorge and I think it was my fault (too fast and too much air in the tyres). A lot of the rocks on the road are sharp and pointed and my combination of speed and to much pressure punctured the tyre. We didn’t find a Desert Pea but what the hell we had a great drive.  Also we all treated ourselves to the Bistro for dinner very nice I must say.
Lunch Brachina Gorge

Brachina Gorge

Day 5 Hot air and sacred canyons

Every day you wake up, are healthy, have enough to eat and can enjoy the simple things in life is a good day. Some days, however, are better than others. Today was one of those days. We had a little surprise for Di to day, which involved getting up at 4am, then driving 30 kms through kangaroo and emu country. You see we had organised a hot air balloon ride from Rawlings Station for her.

 Di has been up in a balloon before and it was one of life’s highlights and she has been wanting to do it again for a while. We took off from a clay pan about 25 kms from the station, just as the sun began to rise and I must say it was an amazing experience. I have spent more time than the average person in different aircraft and there has never been the sensation that this type of flight gives you. Our flight was just on an hour and gave us a completely different perspective of the Flinders Ranges as well as the surrounding ranges. Our heights varied from ground level to about 1800 meters and ended as any good balloon flight should safely on the ground, albeit in a tipped balloon basket.
Some say you haven’t been ballooning till you land like this. We helped pack and stow the balloon then had champagne and treats for breakfast. We went back to camp and thought we might have a relaxing afternoon but we ended up not that tired so decided to go out to the sacred canyon and rock carvings. This was a short trip with about 15 kms of dirt. Gaz and Chaz can with us as this was not really Commodore country, with Peter and Robyn following. This country is amazing and keeps throwing these little tempters at you from time to time. The canyon was one of these. It was not a long walk or even very strenuous one but provide us with a great afternoon spectacle. Walking up the dry creek bed, through narrow, rocky gorges each different from the previous it was just a fitting way to end a great day.  

Sacred Canyon
A visitor and family

the travelling wilburies

Day 4 Wilpena Pound

After another cool night we rose to another great day. Today we have a couple of things loosely planned. A bit of house work (washing), a morning coffee/tea with a planning session and a lot of procrastination was the order of the day. We decided, in the end the 6km round trip to the old Wilpena homestead was the first adventure for the day.  It was a very nice walk, not too strenuous, with some great scenery, rock formations and plants, to say nothing of the wild life. It really is quite nice here at the moment with things relatively green and the wild flowers starting to blossom. The wild life also seems to be booming as well. There are a number of emus with chicks, kangaroos with joeys and birds galore.  They have these birds here which we have not seen before and people have been calling them “happy family”. They seem to roam around in packs and look a bit like a sparrow on steroids. I personally think the name is a misnomer as they don’t sound all that happy to me. Bloody things sound like their bluing all the time.

Old Wilpena Homestead
Sculpture at the homestead
The home stead is really well preserved and the story board chronicling the life of one of the siblings shows the hardship and heart break the early settlers endured. I don’t think too many of us “modern” folks would cut it out here. Now the walk to the homestead was 6 and a bit kms return but we ended up walking about 8 kms. You see we decided to go up to the second lookout. Now according to the “map” it was about 600 mtrs to the top what it didn’t say is the track rose 320 mtrs. How do I know this I hear you asking?  Well I had my GPS with me. The panoramic views from the second lookout, across the “pound” and back through the gap to Wilpena were fantastic.  By the time we returned it was to late to do anything else so we chilled out. Damn life is hard. I have discovered the invariable life comedian again. The men’s urinal and I can hear you say “Don’t go there” but here at the pound he has been at it again. I would not say I’m that tall but I am not vertically challenged either, however, at the urinal is a sign which says “please flush after use button is on top of the cistern”. Not an unusual request but the cistern is more than 2 metres off the ground. I can’t see the button and can just reach it on my tip toes. Some people really have no idea.
some locals enjoying the sun

Some non locals sharing the sun

Day 3 Peterborough to Wilpena Pound

Well we woke at reasonable time but didn’t get away from Peterborough till about 9.15 the social butterflies that we are spent a fair bit of time chewing the fat with a number of our fellow travellers. It’s amazing the diversity and variety of people who just stop and have a chat. It’s also amazing the variety of destinations they seem to be heading. Each has their own story or anecdote or question which invariably leads on to other conversations. It’s a wonderful kaleidoscope of  views, ideas  and general chit chat. So we said good bye to Peterborough and headed for wilpena. Pretty easy trip of about 200kms and relatively uneventful except for the reversing camera on the van coming of its bracket about 3kms from Wilpena. The galvanised screws had rusted through but wasn’t too much of a concern. The roads again were pretty good albeit a few hills. From Hawker out to the pound is about 50kms and has a significant population of emus and kangaroo who have no brains or road sense so we took the trip with a little more caution. Wilpena camping area is not at all what I expected, although I don’t know what I really expected. It’s a nice place, very picturesque and the view from our “patio” would be worth a fortune. We had a pretty relaxing afternoon chilling out and had a couple of short walks while we waited for our fellow travellers to arrive.  We have all set up camp now and it will be pretty quiet (and chilly) night I think.

Hey Sandy have you found Dougal yet?

Day 2 Renmark to Peterborough

We woke to another nice day although it was pretty cold over night. We had a couple of resident ducks out side our door looking for a feed and embracing conversation – they got neither  fair chance would have the other million and half of their relatives who call this part of the river home arrive on the door step as well. We made our way via the Cadell Ferry to Morgan for morning smoko. The ferry is free and if you have time is just something a little different to driving down the highway. Morgan was a quaint little town and very RV friendly. We stopped and had a cuppa and chat to a host of fellow caravaners and travellers, none of which – including us seemed to be in any great hurry to move on. But we said our good byes and headed off for Peterborough. The road was really good and the k’s went quickly enough to ??? after that the road deteriorated for the next 60 kms to Peterborough.  We made it here about 1pm, set up camp and headed into town to the Big Blue I (information centre). Peterborough is an old railway town with a lot of its character and culture centred on that. The information centre is set up in an old rail carriage which has been wonderfully restored and the couple on duty were very helpful although thing must be a bit slow around here when you get excited about someone signing the visitors book “Peter Burrow”.  We decide to visit the steam museum first and to check out the sound and light show they run in the evening. We have decided to do that tonight. Next we went to Dragon’s Rest Gardens apparently named because of all the bearded dragons that populate the garden. We didn’t see any and were a little disappointed with the gardens but then our expectations may have been all wrong. The lady owner was certainly a bucket full of knowledge on the local flora and fauna. Peterborough seems very RV friendly although there is only one small van park.

This trip we have a tom tom to assist with the navigation, as those who read our last travel  blog will know on occasions I have been know to become geographically challenged. I am not sure this is a good thing cause I am unconvinced the brain and the voice in the unit are actually connected or really know the way to go. I feel this is a developing story and reckon by the end of the trip I will be hoping she elopes or something.
The photo on left is a garden setting carved from local timber by the owner at the gardens and photo above right is looking south from the caravan park. Don’t forget “Dougal”

Day 1 Bendigo to Renmark

Well the journey has started and we got away pretty much on time. There isn’t much to say today it was mainly driving. The roads were reasonable, although in places they have or are breaking up. The best road was between Redcliffs and Werrimul no traffic to speak of and the road was in good nick. We had morning tea at Nullawill and there is photo  for Faye. Lunch at Redcliffs and a walk around Big Lizzie then off again. Big Lizzie is a mammoth machine used in the mallee to clear land for irrigation and farming. It’s got its own blacksmith shop in the front section. The wheel arrangements are ingenious to say the least. Top speed about 2 kph. We must belong to some secret club or sect because I have noticed, not for the first time, that when a van, motor home or basically anyone towing some form of mobile accommodation passes us in the opposite direction we get the raised forefinger. Now I have looked all over the car and the van I can’t find anything that would cause this to happen. Somewhere out there is the raised forefinger club which, somehow, I have become a member of. Di tells me they are gust being polite and waving. Personally I’m not sure for all I know they could be giving me the big “L”.

Today’s photos are of us by the road enjoying a cuppa char, big lizzie and the view from our van. Don’t forget kiddies “Where’s Dougal?”

The stove top

As promised here is the pictures of the hand beaten stove cover. Still not sure whether to put the second section on yet. Pic 1 is up ready to cook. Pic 2 is with the fold section in place (just sitting there) and Pic 3 is without it.